As if out of respect for the Sayan mountains, the helicopter got quiet, the faces of the passengers change. Someone shouts to me in my left ear: “The Kitoy River!” - and shows a finger between the rocks, I don’t see anything, I’m just trying to realize if this is happening to me.
These snow-covered black mountains, gray taut sky, kinks and rare trees seemed to have taken on top of the usual illustration and laid out what is impossible beautifully, which makes me feel like some kind of rubbish that is unclear why it exists among the magnificence of the harsh nature of the Sayan mountains. But I do not have time to recover, because suddenly we sit down.
“Well, here we are,” the conductor’s voice sounds businesslike, but it’s as if Da Vinci’s beard is stuck in the ears from afar.
Those who rush to the rescue
The oshore lama is serious. I greet the owners of the area, mentally explaining to them that I don’t have ailments (well, almost), and all I want to ask from them is impressions, knowledge about this place. To be honest, worried.
- We have only two hours, let's bypass the territory, let's see what and how, - we go up to the tourist center. Passing through the camp site, I see a young guy - an employee. He stands on wooden walkways between the houses, looking thoughtfully at the cute chipmunk:
“This is Chip,” he says tentatively. “Or Dale? ...”
It is a pity, I did not have the opportunity to help him decide which of the “rescuers” was basking in the sun at that moment, really - time is short. Immediately from the chalet through gloomy temporary houses, wintering, barbarically felled from the trees of the sacred place, - to the sources. Pressure, vessels, joints, eyes ... medical multidisciplinary center. Thanks, souvenirs, wooden architecture. The amount of mineral salts plays a game with a landscape - in places like a Japanese garden, but a classic fir-grove with stones, streams with salty shores ... I hear one of them quiet - “Cancer spring”. But even before that, I feel a special atmosphere. It cannot be said that there are more signs of being healed, no ... But, you know, there is a wonderful word in Russian - “prayed”. This atmosphere is immediately felt, though not touch it.
But the source of "Men's stubbornness" sounds and looks cheerful. Oshor Lama and I examine the stones, alas, already with modern hieroglyphs. Above smart conversations I see a wonderful Three-headed loach - he seems to be flirting with me: no matter how I raise my eyes, I see. Like.
Leaving the abbot in a small Buddhist temple, we and the head of the camp site are moving to the radon bath. There, behind, is the throat singing of Oshor Lama, his prayer. And ahead there is a story about how inexplicably healing bath, how old this building is and what the symbols around mean. And another symbol: a young blond tourist with a red burned face - that’s it, we’ve got it, everything’s fine, I want to take water, wash my head, and rinse it with this healing water on top ...
Three lines of Shumak sources speak their language quietly. Shumak's whisper is heard - it's still early, it's still cold, the real noise is ahead. There is also a warm season ahead, when it will be more comfortable to be treated and rest here for visitors. Six kilometers down is the magical Mountain of a child. How and why, is it worth to understand, but the most desperate married couples become parents after visiting this area. Many believe that Shumak has no analogues on the part of the treatment of infertility.
There, ahead ... life. A drop, another drop. Tear of joy. I do not ask you, the spirits of the area, I do not disturb - I see it. Such a nature can not be modeled or drawn. Someone on top tried. Thank.
The pure channel of the epilogue
The brave uncle pilot in the dining room jokes: “Departure at three o'clock. Who did not - in a week. I traditionally admire the pilot with clear blue eyes and his car. Especially after the story of how the helicopter was covered with tarpaulin and tons of garbage that had accumulated over the years of being here eager for healing and a relaxing holiday, was taken out. Today, a rule has been introduced on Shumak - it has appeared, here's a bag for you, you will hand over the garbage, then take it out.
- It is very good. The main law for these places works - if necessary, take it. But do not take it with you, and in no case leave mud behind you, Oshore Lama is pleased.
- That is, an old tradition: do not take arshans with you - they will not be healing?
- Absolutely right. You can’t disturb the harmony of healing places - breathe this air, brew healing herbs, get mud and water, but don’t take them. If a person comes here with respect, comes with misfortune, Shumak will help him. But, as in any serious business, you need to be responsible.
On the way home, I thought about what I saw. The fact that the words “thank you” and stories about the disappearing wrinkles are those words that are acceptable in network marketing, and not where the genius of Da Vinci and thoughts, thoughts drive me home. The fact that I have friends, and they are very far away, and they have grief. Osho lama ordered them to go to Shumak ...
Half an hour to Irkutsk. Yes, you need to seriously prepare for such trips. And benefit from them. It is believed that Shumak should be treated for a week or twenty-one days - depending on the evidence and the disease. Today it is possible to help more people, since there is regular communication with Shumak via helicopter. And the spirits - they will not object, if you treat the area with respect.
Oshore Lama and I pretended that we were not at all afraid that the helicopter would fly away without us, we just stand next to each other just in case. The abbot with the toes of the shoe moves the stones.
- Look, heart.
“Wow, that's exactly the right thing, the freaks of nature ...”
- But look, one more thing.
It was a symbol. What does it mean, I will not tell you. But when you are on Shumak, you have to learn a lot about symbols, see what cannot be explained, and what I think you shouldn’t talk about - everyone has his own miracles and these, how are they - artifacts. And you yourself will not talk about them, I'm sure.
Yes, in parting, please: try to find out who Chip is, and who Dale is from those familiar chipmunks, and say hello from me by name. Tell them I'll be back too. Required.
The article used photo and video materials of the site www.shumak.ru.